What makes the anomalies of Nara so fascinating is that the memories of the ancient capital and the spiritual power of the mountains remain inextricably layered within the same prefecture. In the temples of Heijo-kyo, oni emerge in the darkness of the bell towers. On Mount Katsuragi, those who refused to submit to royal authority were branded as tsuchigumo (ground spiders), while on Mount Omine, oni transformed into protective deities for ascetic practitioners, residing in the mountains under the name of tengu. In the Kitora Tomb of Asuka, the Four Gods—Seiryu, Suzaku, Byakko, and Genbu—guard the cardinal directions, while in southern Obagamine and Totsukawa, one-legged mountain spirits proclaim the taboos of winter. Nara Prefecture's official "Nara Yokai Legends" also explains that because Nara stretches long from north to south, cultures and customs differ by region, and the southern part of the prefecture in particular holds many yokai tales intertwined with Shugendo (mountain asceticism)[1].
If one views Nara merely as "the capital before Kyoto," its anomalies become somewhat diluted. Here, the ancient capital where the state sought to order the world through Buddhism and the Ritsuryo legal codes, the archaic strata of the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki myths and royal authority, and the mountain sacred grounds of Yoshino, Omine, and Katsuragi pile upon one another in multiple layers. Thus, the yokai of Nara manifest not only as town rumors, but as temple sermons, the miraculous powers of yamabushi, the star charts of ancient tombs, and the taboos of mountain passes[2]. From the oni of Gango-ji to the Four Gods of Asuka, we wish to explore the anomalies of this land of the ancient capital and mountain asceticism, journeying from the northern capital deep into the southern mountains.
From Gango-ji to Narazaka — Oni Emerging on the Paths and Temples of the Ancient Capital

If one were to name a single yokai from Nara, it would invariably be the oni of Gango-ji. Its story is recorded in the third tale of the first volume of the early Heian period collection of Buddhist setsura (tales), the *Nihon Ryoiki* (Record of Miraculous Events in Japan). A farmer who saved the Thunder God was rewarded with a child—a freakishly strong infant with a snake wrapped around its head. As this boy grew and became a servant at Gango-ji, he lay in wait for an oni that was killing people in the bell tower night after night, grabbed it by the hair, threw it to the ground, and traced the scalp he tore off, only to find that it belonged to the spirit of a slave who had died after committing evil deeds at the temple — it is said that the boy who vanquished the oni later took the tonsure and became known as Dojo Hoshi[3].

Oni of Gango-ji
The Oni of Gango-ji is a vengeful spirit said to have appeared at Gango-ji Temple in Nara. When temple pages stationed at the belfry died mysteriously, a strong-armed boy lay in wait, seized the oni’s hair, and dragged it around until dawn. Following the blood trail led to the grave of a former temple servant of ill repute; his restless spirit had become an oni. The plucked hair was kept as a temple treasure. Old texts and yokai art depict the creature as a monk-shaped demon.
Read moreWhat is crucial here is that the anomaly did not appear deep in the mountains, but inside what could be considered the headquarters of ancient Buddhism. Gango-ji was originally Hoko-ji (Asuka-dera), Japan's first full-scale temple built by Soga no Umako in Asuka, which was moved to Heijo-kyo when the capital relocated there in Yoro 2 (718), making it a great temple on par with Todai-ji and Kofuku-ji. Buddhism intended to protect the state—yet an oni lurked at the very foot of that institution. It is said that the subsequent spread of the words "gagoze" or "gagoji" throughout western Japan as baby-talk for monsters is rooted in the fear of this temple's oni. Nara's yokai culture begins with this paradox of "the oni that appears in a sacred place." Anecdotes also remain in the *Ryoiki* of Dojo Hoshi later wielding his superhuman strength in various places, such as winning a test of strength over water for rice paddies. The boy who threw down the oni eventually became a monk who helped the people—superhuman strength, too, can become a power to protect the Buddhist Dharma depending on how it is used. The depth of Nara's anomalies lies in the fact that the story of the one who defeats the oni already contains the reversal of "friend or foe."
On the periphery of the same ancient capital, there are many anomalies of the road. On Narazaka, which forms the border with Yamashiro (Kyoto)—"saka" (slope) being synonymous with "sakai" (border)—stones would come flying out as kana-tsubute, unsettling the border road. The yakubyogami (plague gods) carry disease across crossroads and borders, while the vengeful spirit of Prince Sawara had his memory shifted from Yamato to the capital against the backdrop of the construction of Nagaoka-kyo—the younger brother of Emperor Kanmu who took the tonsure at Todai-ji, this prince was implicated in the assassination of Fujiwara no Tanetsugu and, while exiled to Awaji, pleaded his innocence, fasted, and died of indignation. The ensuing plagues and natural disasters were attributed to his curse, and in Enryaku 19 (800), he was posthumously titled "Emperor Sudo" and enshrined at Sudo Tenno Shrine in Nara City to be appeased. Enshrining and appeasing a vengeful spirit as a god—Nara's anomalies were, from an early stage, tied to politics.
Kanatsubutekah-nah-TSOO-boo-teh
Epidemic Godyahk-BYOH-gah-mee
Prince SawaraSAH-wah-rah shin-NOH
HannyaHAHN-nyah
Hannya, the crystallization of female passion into an oni, was also born from the soil of Yamato. Nara is the birthplace of Noh theater. The four Yamato Sarugaku troupes that served Kofuku-ji and Kasuga Taisha—the Yuzaki troupe leading to Kanze, the Enman'i troupe to Konparu, the Sakado troupe to Kongo, and the Tobi troupe to Hosho—and it was from this Yuzaki troupe that Kan'ami and Zeami advanced to Kyoto. The four troupes still serve the divine rituals of the Kasuga Wakamiya On-Matsuri today, and Nara is truly the hometown of Noh. For the tales of women burning with jealousy transforming into demonesses—such as Lady Rokujo in *Aoi no Ue* and Kiyohime in *Dojoji*—mask carvers sculpted ambiguous masks with sorrow in the eyebrows and anger around the mouth. That is the Hannya mask. Behind the bright temple complexes of the ancient capital, fears that spilled over from the system breathed in the gates, bell towers, slopes, and crossroads.
Katsuragi,
Omine,
and Yoshino — Oni as Protective Deities and Tengu Guarding the Mountains

Another face of Nara is the mountains. The tsuchigumo of Mount Katsuragi was a term used in the royal myths of the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki to cast "those who did not submit" into monsters. The pre-enthronement chapters of Emperor Jinmu in the *Nihon Shoki* record that short-bodied, long-limbed tsuchigumo lived throughout Yamato, and that the land was renamed Katsuragi because the tsuchigumo of Takaowari village were captured with nets made of katsura (vines)[4]. Depicting local chieftains who refused to follow the center as non-human spiders—monsterization is often another name for the gaze upon the defeated.
The fate of Hitokotonushi, the god enshrined in Katsuragi, is also a tale of the defeated. In the *Shoku Nihongi*, Hitokotonushi vied with the emperor for hunting prey and was exiled to Tosa[5], and eventually, in the *Nihon Ryoiki*, was demoted to the status of a god subjugated by En no Ozuno[3]. This can be read in tandem with the political downfall of the ancient Katsuragi (Kamo) clan, who were based in Katsuragi. Behind the degradation of the god, the rise and fall of a clan can be seen. However, Hitokotonushi is still devoutly worshipped in the Katsuragi region as "Ichigon-san" due to the miraculous virtue of granting any single word (hitokoto) of prayer—the fact that a degraded god continues to gather the prayers of the people is also very characteristic of Nara.

Ōmine Zenkibō
Ōmine Zenkibō is a great tengu enthroned on Mt. Ōmine in Yamato Province, and is counted among the Eight Great Tengu. He is chanted in the Muromachi Noh play Kurama Tengu as "the band of Zenki of Ōmine." His name derives from Zenki, the oni who followed En no Gyōja (En no Ozunu), the founder of Shugendō. En no Gyōja is depicted in the oldest extant tale collection, the Nihon Ryōiki, as a thaumaturge who commanded demons and flew through the air. Zenki was originally an oni who carried off human children, but he was captured by En no Gyōja, repented, and with Goki became his attendant. As an instance of an oni transformed into a great tengu through austerities, Zenkibō sits at Ōmine, the heart of Shugendō, and is handed down as one of the forty-eight tengu.
Read moreBut in the Shugendo world of Omine and Katsuragi, oni are not simply foes to be slain. En no Gyoja, who opened the mountains, is said to have commanded demonic gods to build a bridge between Mount Katsuragi and Mount Kinpusen, and Hitokotonushi, jealous of his spiritual power, falsely accused him by saying, "En no Gyoja is plotting a rebellion," leading to the ascetic's exile to Izu[6]. En no Gyoja, born in Chihara at the foot of Mount Katsuragi (present-day Gose City), is the founder of Shugendo, said to have mastered the magical arts of Kujaku Myo-o (Mahamayuri) and manipulated demonic gods at will. Mount Omine (Sanjo-ga-take), which he opened, is still known today as one of the few sacred sites that strictly prohibits women, and the rugged ascetic grounds of the Okugake-michi trail, which pierces the mountain range from Yoshino to Kumano, awaits practitioners. The husband and wife Zenki and Goki, subjugated by En no Gyoja, were originally oni who devoured human children, but after their own child was hidden away, they repented and transformed into protective deities that guard practitioners — Omine Zenkibo is the symbol of this entity that changed its form from oni to tengu, from enemy to guardian. The descendants of Zenki have for generations run a shukubo (temple lodging) for practitioners traversing the Omine Okugake-michi in the "Zenki no Sato" of Kamikitayama village, and even after the Shugendo Abolition Edict in Meiji 5, the Onakabo of the Gokijo family still protects the dharma lamp of over 1,300 years. An oni that devoured humans repents to become the gatekeeper of a sacred site, passing down its bloodline for over a millennium—the story of Zenki shows better than anything else that the mountains of Nara are a land that transforms objects of fear directly into bearers of faith.
In this mountain world, the tengu is also not merely a long-nosed yokai. Yamabushi, ascetic power, wind, flight, arrogance, and protection—as an entity where these elements overlap, the tengu of Omine bears a religious fear distinct from the interior of the temples. Deep in Omine are scattered ascetic grounds like the Sho-no-Iwaya, where practitioners seclude themselves to temper their dharma power, and it was believed that tengu dwell precisely in such secluded rock caves. The kosame-bo that appears on mountain paths on rainy nights is also an anomaly truly fitting for the Shugendo mountains of Yamato. The painter Toriyama Sekien noted in his *Konjaku Hyakki Shui* that the kosame-bo "wanders the mountains of Omine and Katsuragi on rainy nights, begging for alms at monks' quarters"[7] — the Yamato nature of this anomaly lies in the fact that the place names Omine and Katsuragi are explicitly written. The yokai of Nara's mountains are not products of the uncivilized severed from the capital, but rather inhabitants of the sacred deep mountains upon which the capital relied in search of spiritual power.
Obagamine and the Southern Mountain Villages — The Winter Taboo Proclaimed by the Ippon-datara

Entering the southern part of Nara Prefecture, yokai finally come close to mountain life itself. The Ippon-datara is spoken of as a one-legged, sometimes one-eyed giant anomaly deeply connected to Obagamine. According to legend, after the hunter Izasa-o took down a giant boar with kumazasa (bamboo grass) growing on its back, an anomaly with bamboo grass growing from its back appeared at Yunomine Onsen, which was revealed to be the spirit of the shot boar, "Izasa-o." After death, Izasa-o became a one-legged anomaly haunting Obagamine, attacking travelers and causing the East Kumano Highway to fall into ruin. High Priest Tansei enshrined a Jizo to seal it, but it is unleashed only once a year, on the "Hate no Hatsuka" (the Twentieth of the End), the twentieth day of the twelfth lunar month — hence the taboo passed down in Totsukawa and Kamikitayama villages that one must not enter the mountains on this day[8]. In the deep snowy mountains, there are days when venturing out means death. People remembered that mortal danger in the form of a one-legged yokai.

Ippon-Datara
Ippon-Datara is a mountain yokai said to appear as a one-eyed, one-legged being, best known from tales in Kumano (Kii) and Mt. Obagatake in Nara. It is famed for leaving a single, broad footprint in the snow, with few claiming to have seen its body. A well-known tradition says it appears only on December 20, the “Last Twentieth Day,” when entering the mountains is taboo. Folklore often links it to blacksmithing and the tatara furnace, sometimes interpreted as a fallen, one-eyed smithing deity.
Read moreFor the anomalies of these southern mountain villages, "under what circumstances you encounter them" is more crucial than their appearance. Snow, mountain passes, hunters, mountain labor, night roads. The oshiroibaba is an anomaly of visitation on snowy nights passed down in the Totsukawa region of Yoshino District; in Sekien's *Konjaku Gazu Zoku Hyakki*, she is depicted as an old woman wearing a torn umbrella and holding a cane and a sake flask[9]. The aosagibi is an eerie fire where the black-crowned night heron glows pale blue in the night, which Sekien also fixed into iconography. And the sunakake-baba — though nowadays the impression of her kimono-clad figure from Shigeru Mizuki's works is strong, it is originally an indigenous legend of Yamato. Kunio Yanagita cited in his *Yokai Dangi* from Shirosaku Sawada's *Yamato Mukashibanashi*, "As for the so-called sunakake-baba... no one has seen her figure"[10] — she was feared as an old woman who would shower sand without showing herself in the woods of shrines or lonely roads. The "Sunakake Matsuri" (Sand-Throwing Festival), where sand is thrown at each other likening it to rain, is passed down at Hirose Shrine in Kawai Town, but this is a Shinto ritual for a bountiful harvest from a different lineage and should not be confused. In deep mountain villages like Totsukawa, known as the largest village in Japan with forests making up the vast majority of its area, human habitation is scattered in steep valleys, and the night roads are endlessly dark. Both the oshiroibaba and the sunakake-baba make one suddenly feel only their presence in such darkness — not showing their form was the greatest terror of the anomalies of the southern mountain villages. The mountains of southern Nara are also the path of Shugendo continuing from Yoshino to Kumano, and deep within Totsukawa lies Tamaki Shrine, considered the inner shrine of the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano.
The Stars of Asuka and the Four Gods — Guardian Beasts Remaining in the Tomb Murals
Nara's yokai culture encompasses not only folktales but also the cosmic view of ancient East Asia. Inside the stone chamber of the Kitora Tomb in Asuka Village, the Four Gods, the twelve earthly branches, an astronomical chart, and the sun and moon are depicted. Starting with the confirmation of Genbu on the north wall by fiberscope in Showa 58 (1983), investigations progressed to reveal Seiryu on the east wall, Suzaku on the south wall, Byakko on the west wall, and Genbu on the north wall — the mural in this Kitora Tomb is the only one in Japan where all four gods remain complete[11] (the Takamatsuzuka Tomb lost its Suzaku on the south wall due to grave robbing). The astronomical chart drawn on the ceiling is considered one of the oldest full-scale star charts in East Asia, marking the positions of the stars close to the actual celestial sphere, and the murals are designated as a National Treasure. The beasts guarding the four directions also have the quirks of the land. Kitora's Byakko faces north (usually south), and figures of the twelve earthly branches with human bodies and beast heads are also depicted, distinguishing it from the Takamatsuzuka Tomb in the same Asuka region. While Takamatsuzuka features a brilliant group of men and women, Kitora has the twelve earthly branches and a full-scale astronomical chart — beneath Asuka lie two different universes. The discovery of the richly colored murals of the Takamatsuzuka Tomb in Showa 47 (1972) drove all of Japan into a frenzy as one of the greatest post-war archaeological events. From beneath a small hill in Asuka, after 1,300 years, vivid beasts and people revealed themselves.
Seiryū (Azure Dragon)Seiryū
Suzaku (Vermilion Bird)Suzaku
Byakko (White Tiger)Byakko
Genbu (Black Tortoise)Genbu

Here, the boundary between yokai and divine beasts broadens significantly. Seiryu, Suzaku, Byakko, and Genbu are not monsters appearing in ghost stories, but guardian divine beasts presiding over the four directions of heaven. However, the imagination that sought to understand and depict the invisible directions, stars, seasons, and afterlife in the form of beasts is continuous with the mentality that birthed oni and tengu. The beasts continuing to guard the directions in the darkness of the tomb—when considering the anomalies of Nara, along with the oni of the temples and the tengu of the mountains, these directional gods sleeping on the walls of the burial mounds are also an indispensable clan.
Mount Shigi,
Water Gods,
and Plague Gods — Prayers Shape the Contours of Yokai
In Nara, fear often takes the form of prayer. Bishamonten, enshrined at Chogosonshi-ji on Mount Shigi, is typical of this. According to temple tradition, when Prince Shotoku prayed for victory on this mountain on his way to defeat Mononobe no Moriya, Bishamonten appeared and imparted the secret method for certain victory. Because that day was the Year of the Tiger, the Day of the Tiger, and the Hour of the Tiger, the tiger became associated with it, and even today, giant papier-mâché tigers stare down the approach. The name of Mount Shigi is said to derive from "a mountain to be believed in, to be revered" (*shinzubeki tattobuki yama*). Bishamonten, the martial god guarding the north and bringing fortune in battle, was also devoutly worshipped by samurai families praying for victory. The very god of armor who repels disaster is placed at the center of the people's prayers — in Nara, fearing anomalies and relying on gods were always two sides of the same coin. In the Heian period, it is said that the monk Myoren prayed to Bishamonten and healed the illness of Emperor Daigo, and the National Treasure *Shigisan Engi Emaki* (Scrolls of Legends of Mount Shigi) depicts numerous miracles with dynamic brushwork, including the "Flying Storehouse Scroll," where a rice granary flies through the sky on an alms bowl; the "Engi Incantation Scroll," where a sword-clad guardian boy flies to the capital to heal the emperor; and the "Nun Scroll," where Myoren's older sister searches for her brother and prays to the Great Buddha of Todai-ji, making it one of the four great picture scrolls of Japan[12].
For Nara, a land of mountains and rivers, the Ryujin (Dragon God) that presides over water is an indispensable deity. Muro Ryuketsu Shrine in Uda is a sacred site for rainmaking enshrining Zennyo Ryuo, and deep within the shrine is the Kissho Ryuketsu (Auspicious Dragon Cave) where a dragon is said to dwell; the Heian imperial court dispatched envoys during every drought. A legend remains that a dragon once lived in Sarusawa Pond in Nara City, but disliking the impurity of the pond, it moved to Muro, intertwining with the tale of the *uneme* (court lady) who threw herself into the water after losing the emperor's favor. Even today, on the mid-autumn moon, the Uneme Matsuri is held to console the *uneme* at this pond where the dragon departed, with gagaku (court music) boats circling the water surface. The tradition in the *Kojiki* and *Nihon Shoki* that Omononushi-no-Kami of Mount Miwa possessed a serpentine body also tells the story of how the gods of Nara have freely traversed between human and beast, god and anomaly. In the legend of Mount Miwa, when the true identity of the beautiful man who visited Ikutamayori-hime night after night was investigated by tracing a hemp thread pierced into his garment, the thread led to the shrine of Mount Miwa — the man was a snake, the incarnation of Omononushi. At Niukawakami Shrine in Yoshino, the imperial court offered a black horse during droughts and a white horse during long rains to pray for rain and for clear skies, respectively. Seeing dragons in the mountains, snakes in the water, and horses in the rain — Nara's water faith is the accumulation of long endeavors that have read the behaviors of nature in the forms of gods and beasts. Welcoming and enshrining plagues as gods coming from the outside, and appeasing vengeful spirits with imperial titles — the anomalies of Nara have been inextricably linked with the earnest endeavors of the people: how to receive disasters, where to enshrine them, and how to appease them. Furthermore, just as the sacred deer of Kasuga Taisha are considered messengers of the gods originating from the descent of Takemikazuchi riding a white deer, in Nara, beasts also frequently stand on the side of the sacred.
A Mental Map for Walking the Yokai of Nara Prefecture
Visiting the yokai of Nara is also a re-examination of the famous sites of ancient history from a different angle. Finally, I would like to organize the anomalies of this prefecture into four layers.
- Around Nara City (The Ancient Capital): Temples, slopes, crossroads, vengeful spirits, and performing arts serve as the axis, such as the oni of Gango-ji, kana-tsubute, yakubyogami, Prince Sawara, and Hannya.
- Katsuragi and Omine: The periphery of royal authority and the spiritual power of Shugendo overlap, such as the tsuchigumo, Omine Zenkibo, tengu, and kosame-bo.
- Yoshino, Obagamine, and Totsukawa: Anomalies rooted in snow, mountain passes, mountain labor, and night roads become dense, such as the ippon-datara, oshiroibaba, and aosagibi.
- Asuka: The Seiryu, Suzaku, Byakko, and Genbu of the Kitora Tomb join the yokai map of Nara as ancient directional guardians predating ghost stories.
Viewing these four layers superimposed, the yokai of Nara are not "old stories," but a way of reading the land itself. When looking at a temple, one thinks of the oni in the bell tower; when looking at a mountain, one thinks of the oni and tengu of Shugendo; when looking at a tomb, one thinks of the star chart and the Four Gods. In Gango-ji, an oni lurks in the bell tower; in Omine, an oni becomes a tengu to protect practitioners; and in Obagamine, a one-legged mountain spirit warns of winter. Nara is not the ruins of an old capital. It is a prefecture where temples, royal authority, mountain asceticism, and tomb astronomy each gave shape to fear in their respective places, quietly continuing to ask the traveler, "What kind of land is this?"









