The yokai of Shiga Prefecture cannot be fully grasped without viewing them through the lens of the lake. At the center of the prefecture lies Lake Biwa, a massive ancient lake spanning 670 square kilometers. One hundred and eighteen Class A rivers flow into it, yet only the Seta River flows out. This vast basin of water—historically known as the "Sea of Omi"—has absorbed memories of fishing and boat transport, rain and fog, prayers and battles over the past millennium[1]. Shiga's supernatural anomalies grew upon the mountains and shrines surrounding this lake, as well as along the roads leading to the capital.
What makes the mysteries of this lake province so fascinating is that the boundaries between "waterside yokai" and "mountain/temple yokai" are never sharply defined. At the Seta Karahashi bridge, a Dragon King disguised as a giant serpent halts a passing warlord; on Mount Mikami, a colossal centipede glares down at the lake. On Mount Hiei and at Hiyoshi Taisha shrine, divine monkeys guard the capital's demon gate (*kimon*), while at Miidera temple, a monk consumed by vengeance transforms into an army of mice. A great tengu dwells on Mount Hira, a general vanquishes demons in the village of Koka, and a man named Saburo journeys to the depths of the earth only to emerge with the body of a serpent. And in Shigaraki, the descendants of shapeshifting tanuki have become the face of a pottery town. Shiga is not merely the outskirts of Kyoto. It is a place where the gods, buddhas, war chronicles, ghost stories, and folk arts of the capital touch the lake and mountains, changing their very forms. Starting from the Seta Karahashi bridge south of the lake, let us take a clockwise journey tracing the mysteries of Omi.
Seta Karahashi and Lake Biwa ── The Dragon and the Centipede Standing in the City of Water

If one were to name a single yokai from Shiga, the Giant Centipede of Mount Mikami simply cannot be left out. The Heian-period warlord Fujiwara no Hidesato, also known as Tawara Toda, found his path blocked by a massive serpent lying across the Seta Karahashi bridge. Unflinchingly stepping right over it, the serpent transformed into a beautiful maiden—an incarnation of the Dragon King who ruled the Seta River and Lake Biwa.

Giant Centipede
The Giant Centipede is a monstrous centipede yokai whose carapace is so hard it deflects blades and arrows. Its body is long enough to coil around mountains, its many legs glow a fiery red, and its venomous fangs were said to bite through armor. It is portrayed as an adversary of great serpents and dragons—water deities—with whom it battles in lakes, marshes, and the wilds. Centipedes symbolized fearless resolve and were seen as auspicious by warriors and merchants, though details of this creature vary widely by region.
Read moreThe Dragon King was at his wit's end, as his kin were being devoured by a colossal centipede that coiled seven and a half times around Mount Mikami, often called "the Fuji of Omi." Acceding to the Dragon King's plea, Hidesato fired an arrow, moistened with his saliva after the first two bounced off, and with divine protection, pierced the space between the centipede's eyes. Invited to the Dragon Palace in gratitude, Hidesato was gifted inexhaustible bales of rice, rolls of silk, and a bronze bell, which he is said to have donated to Miidera (Onjoji) temple ── this tale of martial valor was also woven into the fifteenth volume of the *Taiheiki*[2][3]. Viewed as a yokai story, it is not merely human military prowess taking the spotlight. The dragon beneath the bridge, the arrow crossing the lake, and the centipede spanning the mountain—the very topography of Omi drives the narrative forward.
The bales of rice gifted by the Dragon King were said to never run out, no matter how much rice was taken, which supposedly gave rise to his moniker "Tawara (Bale) Toda." The bell donated to Miidera has its own sequel. Later, when the Sanmon (Mount Hiei) and Jimon (Miidera) sects clashed, Benkei stole this bell and dragged it up Mount Hiei. However, when he struck it, it cried out, *"Inou, inou"* ("I want to go home"), infuriating Benkei, who hurled it down into the valley ── the battered bell remains at Miidera to this day, known as "Benkei's Dragged Bell." A reward for slaying a centipede became inextricably linked to the memory of conflict between temples.
At the eastern end of the Seta Karahashi sits Takebe Taisha, the paramount shrine (*ichinomiya*) of Omi Province. Enshrined here is Yamato Takeru no Mikoto ── the greatest ancient hero-god who pacified raging deities across the land, yet even he fell to the god of Mount Ibuki. According to the *Kojiki*, Yamato Takeru ascended Mount Ibuki to defeat its deity barehanded. Along the way, he encountered a massive white boar (a giant serpent in the *Nihon Shoki*), which he dismissed, saying, "This must be a messenger of the god. I will kill it on my way back." Enraged by his insolence, the god unleashed a fierce hailstorm that robbed him of his senses. The hero descended the mountain stricken with illness and ultimately perished at Nobono in Ise[4]. Seeking to revive his fading breath after losing his mind to the hail, the hero is said to have stopped at the "Isame no Shimizu" (Spring of Awakening) in Samegai (modern-day Maibara City) at the southern foot of Mount Ibuki. The clear spring waters still flow along the highway today, firmly tying Yamato Takeru's final tale to the land of Omi. Mount Ibuki, gazing down upon Lake Biwa, loomed in the northeast of Omi as a mountain inhabited by an *aragami* (wild god) powerful enough to slay a hero.
Giant CentipedeOH-oh-MOO-kah-deh
Yamato TakeruYamato Takeru
Minobi (Rain-cloak Fire)MEE-noh-bee
Benzaitenべんざいてん
The lake itself breeds anomalies when night falls. The Minobi (straw-raincoat fire) passed down in Hikone is a phenomenon where numerous fireballs, like fireflies, cling to the straw raincoats of boatmen crossing Lake Biwa on rainy nights during the monsoon season. The more one brushes them away, the more they multiply, yet they emit no heat ── Toriyama Sekien also depicted this in his *Konjaku Hyakki Shui*[5][6]. The contradiction of fire burning atop water is transformed directly into beauty—a trait quintessentially characteristic of the lake country. While some theories suggest the souls of the drowned turn into fire, Meiji-era philosopher Enryo Inoue explained it as the work of phosphorus and gases rising from the lake surface. Suspended between the supernatural and science, the Minobi continues to glow faintly to this day. Anomalies also lurk at the bottom of the lake. The oldest record of a mermaid in Japan actually comes from Omi ── the *Nihon Shoki* records that in the twenty-seventh year of Empress Suiko (619 CE), something "shaped like a human" appeared in the Gamo River of Omi Province[7]. The folk belief that giant catfish (*oonamazu*) thrashing at the lake's bottom cause earthquakes has also been told in connection with this massive water basin ── while the belief that underground catfish cause tremors exists nationwide, in Omi, home to Japan's largest lake, the shadow of this gargantuan fish must have been imagined with profound realism.
Floating to the north of the lake is Chikubushima, the island of the Dragon God and Benzaiten. The Benzaiten of Hogonji, said to have been founded by Gyoki by imperial decree of Emperor Shomu, is counted among Japan's Three Great Benzaiten alongside Enoshima and Miyajima. The adjacent Tsukubusuma Shrine venerates the Chikubushima Dragon God. The dragon that commands water and Benzaiten who brings fortune and the performing arts ── this small island floating on the lake was a place where the sacredness of Omi's waters was intensely concentrated. Designated as the thirtieth temple of the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, this island has historically only been accessible by boat. The sanctuary towering in the middle of the lake was revered as an island inhabited by dragons, drawing the prayers of those seeking rain.
Mount Hiei and Miidera ── The Politics of Temples Birth Vengeful Spirits

Another core of Omi's identity is the religious history entwining Mount Hiei and Miidera. Miidera (Onjoji) in Otsu is the head temple of the Tendai Jimon sect, known as the "Temple of the Phoenix" for being repeatedly burned down in wars only to be resurrected. When the legend of the monk Raigo's vengeful spirit overlaps with the history of this temple, its legacy immediately takes on the chilling atmosphere of yokai.

Tesso
Tesso is a yokai said to be the vengeful spirit of the monk Raiyō from Onjōji (Miidera), which took the form of a giant rat. Framed by the rivalry between Enryakuji and Miidera, it is depicted as a massive rat that gnaws through sutras and Buddhist images. The name “Tesso” comes from Toriyama Sekien’s Illustrated Night Parade of a Hundred Demons; older sources call it Raiyō’s Rat or the Miidera Rat. The tale blends a grudge-ghost narrative with folk fears of rat damage, and memorial rites linger at shrines and temples around Mount Hiei and Ōtsu.
Read moreRaigo was an esteemed monk of Miidera whose prayers successfully brought about the birth of a prince for Emperor Shirakawa. As a reward, he requested the establishment of an ordination platform (*kaidan*) at Miidera. However, this was vehemently opposed by the rival Enryakuji temple on Mount Hiei, and the request was denied, reportedly causing Raigo to die of indignant rage ── the *Heike Monogatari* tells that Raigo, consumed by bitterness, turned into a vengeful spirit and cursed the newborn prince to death[8]. Behind this lies the "Sanmon-Jimon Schism," a deep-seated antagonism over ordination rights between the Jimon lineage of Enchin (Miidera) and the Sanmon lineage of Ennin (Enryakuji), despite both belonging to the Tendai sect. The tale of Raigo's ghost was a narrative birthed from this profound conflict. In later stories, his malice transformed into a horde of eighty-four thousand iron-fanged mice that swarmed Mount Hiei, devouring sutras and Buddhist statues. Edo-period yokai artists crystallized this terror under the name Tesso (Iron Mouse), and to this day, the Juhachi Myojin shrine stands at Miidera to pacify the spirits of the mice, glaring pointedly toward Mount Hiei[9]. The idea of a vengeful spirit transforming into mice carries the weight of a highly visceral memory of temple warfare.
Mount Hiei was the mountain guarding the demon gate (*kimon*, the northeast) of Heian-kyo. Its protective divine messengers are the *Masaru* (Divine Monkeys) of Hiyoshi Taisha. The word *masaru* echoes the Japanese phrases "demons depart" and "to excel," earning them reverence as agents of warding off evil and securing victory[10]. The Sanno faith, headquartered at Hiyoshi Taisha, spread across the country, with numerous Hiyoshi and Hie shrines adopting divine monkeys as their messengers ── the mountain guarding the capital's northeast entrusted the grand task of exorcising demons to a familiar beast, the monkey. While there are Monkey Gods protecting the mountain and the capital, tengu also reside on the same Mount Hiei. Magical powers, flight, arrogance, and the defense of the dharma ── mountains of ascetic practice were arenas where the sacred and the demonic continuously clashed.
The boundary between this sacredness and the demonic is best embodied by the Myotara-ten of Mount Hiei's Jogyodo hall ── also known as Matarajin, the secret god of the back door (*ushirodo*). It is said that Jikaku Daishi Ennin enshrined this deity after receiving an oracle on a ship returning from Tang China, which warned, "Unless you venerate me, rebirth in the Pure Land shall not be granted"[11]. It possesses two faces: a god that protects those reciting the *nembutsu* for salvation, yet also an obstacle god (*shogeshin*) that brings calamity to the dying. Vindicated as the principal image of the esoteric "Genshi Kimyodan" rite and enshrined in the *ushirodo*—the darkness behind the main altar—this god was also venerated as a guardian deity of performing artists like sarugaku players. The shadow god to the frontal Buddha, the darkness to the light ── Matarajin single-handedly shoulders the "unseen side" of faith. Concerning the oil lamps of the Jogyodo, tales speak of the Abura-bo (Oil Monk) ── a monk who stole lamp oil and was condemned to wander as a ghostly flame after death. Alongside the Abura-akago (Oil Baby) that comes to lick the oil of lanterns, in Omi, "light" was yet another medium that summoned the uncanny[12].
Mount Hira,
Katsuragawa,
and Mount Ibuki ── The Tengu and Demons Summoned by the Mountains
The mountains to the west and north of the lake exude a thick presence of tengu and demons. Hirasan Jirobo, residing on Mount Hira, is considered a great tengu second only to Tarobo of Mount Atago. The *Hirasan Kojin Reitaku* (1239)[13], written by the Kamakura-period monk Keisei, chronicles over fifty exchanges of Buddhist dialogue between Keisei and the great tengu of Mount Hira, who had possessed a court lady ── it is fascinating that the tengu is depicted not merely as a monster that bewitches humans, but as an entity capable of debating religion. When counting Japan's eight great tengu, Tarobo of Mount Atago invariably takes the lead, followed by Jirobo of Mount Hira. The high peaks of Hira, gazing down at Lake Biwa, were deemed a mountain worthy of hosting such a magnificent tengu.
Hira-san JirōbōHira-san Jirōbō
Itsumadee-tsu-mah-deh
King of the Waterfall Spirittah-kee RAY-oh
Shuten-dōjiSHOO-ten DOH-jee
Itsumade, often spoken of in connection with the same Mount Hira, originally traces back to a monstrous bird in the twelfth volume of the *Taiheiki*. In 1334 (the first year of the Kemmu era), as an epidemic ravaged Heian-kyo, a gigantic bird appeared over the Shishinden palace night after night, crying out, *"Itsu made, itsu made"* ("Until when? Until when?"). The master archer Oki Jirozaemon Hiroari shot it down with a whistling arrow[3]. It was the Edo-period artist Toriyama Sekien who gave the name "Itsumade" to this monstrous bird, which had a human face, saw-like teeth, a serpentine body, and sword-like claws. The anxiety of a world unable to adequately mourn its dead transformed into the relentless, questioning cry of a bird.
In the valley of Katsuragawa resides an incarnation of Fudo Myo-o (Acala) who dwells within a waterfall. The monk So-o, the founder of the *kaihogyo* (mountain-circling ascetic practice) of Mount Hiei, secluded himself at the Sannotaki waterfall in Katsuragawa. After grueling ascetic training, he perceived the figure of Fudo Myo-o within the waterfall basin. Leaping into the plunge pool in a state of ecstasy to embrace the deity, he found himself clasping an ancient katsura tree ── So-o is said to have carved a statue of Fudo Myo-o from that sacred wood and founded the Katsuragawa Sokusho Myooin temple. Takireiou (Waterfall Spirit King) is the manifestation of Fudo Myo-o appearing in this waterfall, and even today, the "Taiko Mawashi" (Drum Spinning) ritual is held every July to commemorate the legend of So-o plunging into the waters. So-o was an ascetic who initiated the *kaihogyo*, trekking across the peaks of Mount Hiei in veneration, and Katsuragawa became the foundational training ground for this severe discipline. Seeing a Buddha in a waterfall and throwing oneself into the waters ── the *shugen* (mountain asceticism) sentiment of discovering divinity within nature itself is concentrated in the name Takireiou.
And in the northeast of the prefecture, Mount Ibuki harbors a variant legend of Shuten-doji. While Shuten-doji is famously known as the demon of Mount Oe in Tanba, the lineage of *otogizoshi* (companion tales) also circulated stories claiming his birthplace was Mount Ibuki in Omi[14]. A rowdy child born between the Ibuki Daimyojin god and a human woman supposedly grew into the great demon who terrorized the capital ── it is likely no coincidence that the mountain of the wild god who repelled the hero Yamato Takeru was also cast as the mountain that birthed a demon. This variant identifies "Ibuki-doji," born between the Ibuki Daimyojin and the daughter of a wealthy man, as the future Shuten-doji. Born with a full set of teeth and a fondness for alcohol, this child was eventually driven from the mountain, becoming the great demon menacing the capital ── the premise of a child inheriting the blood of a wild god is a perfect match for the stage of Mount Ibuki in Omi.
Koka ── The General Who Slew Demons and Saburo Who Traversed the Underworld

In the Koka region in the southeast of Omi, preceding the Suzuka Pass leading into Ise, tales of heroes slaying demons have taken deep root. At the center of this lore is Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, enshrined at the Tamura Shrine in Tsuchiyama, Koka City.
Sakanoue no Tamuramaroさかのうえのたむらまろ
Koga SaburoKoga Saburo
Giant CentipedeOH-oh-MOO-kah-deh
Benzaitenべんざいてん
Tamuramaro was a historical *Seii Taishogun* (Commander-in-Chief of the Expeditionary Force) renowned for pacifying the Tohoku region, but in narratives from the medieval period onward, he broke free from historical facts to become General Tamura, the slayer of demons. The shrine's history recounts that by order of Emperor Saga, Tamuramaro pacified vicious demons nesting in the Suzuka Pass on the border of Omi and Ise. After the extermination, he fired his remaining arrows, vowing, "With the virtue of this arrow, I shall ward off calamities from all people," which supposedly sparked the evil-warding faith at Tamura Shrine[15]. In the *otogizoshi* tale *Story of Suzuka* (*Tamura no Soshi*), he joins forces with Suzuka Gozen—said to be either a female bandit of Suzuka Pass or a celestial maiden—and wields three legendary swords to defeat demon gods like Otakemaru ── the treacherous border of Suzuka Pass was thus mythologized as a place where demons appear. The three legendary swords wielded by Suzuka Gozen—Daitsuren, Shotsuren, and Kenmyoren—were the spectacular highlights of these recited tales. At Tamura Shrine, a "Yakuyoke Taisai" (Great Evil-Warding Festival) is still held every February, drawing throngs of worshippers in honor of the story where Tamuramaro banished disasters with his remaining arrows. The tale of vanquishing the Suzuka demons has been passed down for over a thousand years as a living faith in warding off evil.
From the same Koka emerged a hero of an entirely different stripe: Koka Saburo. According to the "Suwa Engi" within the medieval tale collection *Shintoshu*, Saburo, the third son of a Koka lord, ventured into a cavern on Mount Tateshina in Shinano to rescue his wife, Princess Kasuga, who had been abducted by a tengu on Mount Ibuki. However, the rope meant to haul him back to the surface was cut by his elder brother, leaving him stranded in the underworld. It is said there were seventy-two countries beneath the earth, and although Saburo wed the princess of one such country, Ikan, he continued to long for the surface. Eating mochi made from deer liver, he traced a long journey back and finally emerged on the surface ── only to find his body had transformed into a serpent (dragon). Saburo eventually regained his human form and is said to have become the Myojin (deity) of Suwa[16]. A warrior traversing the underworld, ascending to godhood through the vessel of a serpent ── the land of Koka served as the starting point for such a magnificent tale of reincarnation.
On the dark roads of Koka, more rustic horrors also roamed. The Edo-period *Shokoku Rijindan* records that around the Kanbun era in Koka District, Omi Province, a Katawa-guruma (One-Wheeled Cart) carrying a woman and spewing fire appeared night after night. A woman who peeked at it had her child abducted, but when she pasted a waka poem on her door reading, "Though the fault lies with me, the little cart...", the cart returned the next night, saying, "What a tenderhearted person," returned the child, and vanished[17]. A terrifying monster appeased by a single poem ── the spirit of the people of Omi, who believed in the power of words, is beautifully encapsulated here.
Gods and Yokai Stand Together on the Same Map ── The Depths of the Lake Country
Tracing the yokai of Omi, one ultimately realizes a singular truth: here, gods, buddhas, vengeful spirits, and yokai are never sharply segregated. The warlord who vanquished the giant centipede, the Dragon King of the Seta River, the divine monkeys of Hiyoshi, the Iron Mouse of Miidera, the Benzaiten of Chikubushima, and the Takireiou of Katsuragawa all coexist on the same map. Benzaiten sits on a lake island imbued with the spirituality of water, Fudo Myo-o manifests in mountain waterfalls, and demons appear on mountain passes to be slain by a general. Because the mountains and the lake—the sources of spiritual power—are also the habitats of the uncanny, the objects of prayer and the objects of fear share a contiguous boundary in Omi. Worshipping the divine and fearing the anomalous have always been two sides of the same coin in the lake country.
This sense of contiguity lives on in modern Shigaraki. The ceramic Shigaraki tanuki is not merely the classic shapeshifting tanuki of folklore, but a figure cultivated in the modern era as a lucky charm for business prosperity. In 1951, Emperor Showa visited Shigaraki and was moved to compose a poem upon seeing the rows of tanuki statues lining his path. This brought them national fame, and eventually, the form known as the "Hassou Engi" (Eight Auspicious Features)—wearing a straw hat and carrying a sake flask and a promissory note—became standard[18]. The hat represents vigilance against unexpected disaster, the large eyes symbolize attentiveness to one's surroundings, the sake flask (*tokkuri*) signifies virtue (*jintoku*), and the promissory note (*kayoicho*) represents trust ── within each detail of the tanuki figurine, a principle of business is encoded as one of eight auspicious signs.

The tanuki, which once bewitched humans, now stands at storefronts inviting good fortune ── a feared monster becomes loved, venerated, and a part of everyday life. Walking across Seta Karahashi, the giant centipede and the Dragon King rise before you; visiting Miidera reveals the history of resentment behind Raigo and the Iron Mouse; heading from Sakamoto toward Hiyoshi Taisha brings the divine monkeys and the defense of the demon gate into view. Great tengu loom in the shadows of Mount Hira, Minobi fires flicker over a rainy Lake Biwa, and the memories of the demon-slaying general and Saburo, who traversed the underworld to become a god, slumber in the passes of Koka. The yokai of Shiga Prefecture are another map for interpreting the landscapes of the lake country, and upon that map, gods and monsters alike are children of the same water and mountains.







