The yokai of Shimane Prefecture are often less like traditional monsters and more akin to the gods themselves. Izumo, located here, is a rare land where the stage of the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki myths remains a place you can literally walk through today. The Hii River where Yamata no Orochi was slain, Inasa Beach where the transfer of the land (Kuniyuzuri) was negotiated, and Yomotsu Hirasaka, considered the entrance to the underworld—these events of the Age of the Gods can be pointed out as real locations on a map.
The folklorist Kunio Yanagita explained that yokai are "fallen gods"—divine beings who lost their worshippers and degenerated into monsters. The supernatural phenomena of Shimane paint the very gradient of this downfall across its geography. Centered around Izumo, where gods rest with their divinity intact, the further one travels west to Iwami or north to Oki, the more these mysterious entities shed their divine majesty, descending into earthy monsters of the sea and mountains. Izumo, where gods slay monsters, surrender domains, and welcome sea snakes. Iwami and Oki, where the Ushi-Oni and giant women stand amidst the rough seas. Furthermore, the bloodlines of spirit possession, and the ghost of a mother vanishing into a graveyard—let us explore this land where myth, folklore, and social history overlap seamlessly, starting with Izumo.
Izumo:
Where Myths Slay,
Surrender,
and Welcome

Yamata no Orochi
Yamata no Orochi is the enormous serpent deity of Izumo mythology, recorded in the Kojiki, upper volume, completed in 712 and the Nihon Shoki, book one, section eight, completed in 720. It is said to have lived in the upper reaches of the Hii River, anciently called the Hi River, and to have been slain by Susanoo. Yet Orochi is not simply a monster to be defeated. It can be read as the spirit of Izumo's mountains and rivers, the memory of a flooding river, a mythic image of sand iron and tatara ironmaking, and a sign of local Izumo cults being drawn into the mythology of Yamato rule. The Kojiki describes eyes red like winter cherries, one body with eight heads and eight tails, moss, cypress, and cedar growing on its back, a body stretching across eight valleys and eight ridges, and a belly always bloody and raw. Susanoo prepares eight vats of strong yashiori sake and an eightfold fence, lets the eight heads drink themselves senseless, cuts the serpent down with his totsuka sword, and finds the great sword Tsumugari in the middle tail: the later Kusanagi, or Ame-no-Murakumo. This sword becomes the martial treasure among the Three Sacred Treasures. After the victory, Susanoo marries Kushinada-hime, builds a palace at Suga in Izumo, and composes the celebrated "Yakumo tatsu" poem, often treated as Japan's earliest waka. Today Unnan records roughly fifty sites tied to the Orochi legend, while the Iwami Kagura drama Orochi keeps the serpent on stage in the present.
Read moreWhen Susanoo, expelled from Takamagahara (the High Celestial Plain), descended to Torikami in Izumo (present-day Okuizumo), he found an elderly couple weeping. They lamented that their daughters had been taken one by one by Yamata no Orochi, and now their last remaining daughter, Kushinadahime, was about to be taken as well. Susanoo intoxicated the eight-headed, eight-tailed giant serpent with strong sake and slew it. From its tail, he obtained the Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi (Ame-no-Murakumo-no-Tsurugi) and offered it to Amaterasu Omikami[1]—the origin of the sword that would later be counted as one of the Three Sacred Treasures of Japan.
The form of that giant serpent, said to span eight valleys and eight peaks, has often been explained as a mythologization of the Hii River itself, which frequently flooded and dyed the waters red with iron sand, or as a representation of the tatara ironmaking that flourished in Okuizumo. "Kannanagashi," the process of cutting down mountains and using water to separate high-quality iron sand by specific gravity, naturally muddied the river red. The Kojiki describes the serpent's belly as "always inflamed and oozing with blood," a description that both researchers and local historians interpret as a metaphor for this iron-stained river. Daisetsu Fujioka of the Kojindani Museum and others present a combined interpretation: the giant serpent as an allegory for annual floods, alongside the metaphor of Okuizumo's ironmakers. Yamata no Orochi embodies the dual faces of Izumo—mythology and ironmaking—in a single body.
The Izumo no Kuni Fudoki does not include the story of the slaying of Yamata no Orochi itself; this tale is primarily passed down through the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki. Because the serpent is referred to as being from "Koshi" (Hokuriku), some theories suggest that the myth preserves the memory of a power struggle between Izumo and the foreign enemies of Koshi.

In any case, the iron mined in Okuizumo was transported along the old flow of the Hii River, through Lake Shinji to Taisha Bay, and shipped nationwide via cargo vessels from ports like Kizuki and Uryu. The river where the mythical serpent rampaged was simultaneously an "iron road" that brought wealth. Even today, the ancient method of ironmaking is quietly preserved in Okuizumo at places like the Sugaya Tatara Sannai and Nittoho Tatara. After defeating the serpent, Susanoo traveled to Suga seeking a place to build a palace to live with his wife. Upon seeing the rising clouds, he is said to have composed a poem: "Eight clouds arise, the eightfold fence of Izumo makes an eightfold fence for the spouses to retire within. Oh, that eightfold fence"—considered the oldest waka poem in Japan. Suga Shrine (Unnan City), which stands on this site, calls itself "The First Shrine of Japan." The shrine that pacifies the spirit of Susanoo is Susa Shrine in Sada-cho, Izumo City. According to the Izumo no Kuni Fudoki, this is the only place in the country where he finally cultivated the land, gave it his own name, and enshrined his spirit. Kushinadahime, who was saved from the slain serpent, is also enshrined at Inata Shrine in Okuizumo, and alongside Susanoo, remains a guardian deity of the land today. The gods of myth remain firmly affixed to the land through place names and shrines.
Okuninushi-no-Kami, who surrendered the land to the heavenly grandchild, rests in Izumo Taisha and continues to gather nationwide faith as the god of marriage and relationships. Okuninushi is also a nation-building god who developed the land alongside Sukunahikona, a tiny god from across the sea, establishing laws for medicine and incantations. It was Okuninushi who saved the white rabbit—crying at the cape of Keta after being skinned—by instructing it to wash in fresh water and wrap itself in cattail pollen. The Kojiki recounts that through this deep compassion, he won the heart of Yakamihime—the vestige of a matchmaking god is already present in this myth. However, according to the Kojiki, the heavenly god Takemikazuchi demanded the surrender of this established land. At Inasa Beach (west of Izumo Taisha), Takemikazuchi thrust his sword upside-down into the crest of a wave, sat cross-legged on the tip, and pressed Okuninushi. His son Takeminakata was defeated in a test of strength and fled to Suwa, and the land was finally surrendered to the heavenly grandchild. Folklorist Kazuhiko Komatsu argued that the shadows of the supernatural reside in the lands where such "defeated gods who yielded to state power" are enshrined. Izumo is precisely the land that crowns Okuninushi, the god who lost the Kuniyuzuri (transfer of the land), as its chief deity. The weight of this fallen myth sinks to the bottom of the region's yokai culture.
Shrine traditions claim that the main hall of Izumo Taisha, which enshrines Okuninushi, was a sky palace standing sixteen *jo* (about 48 meters) tall in ancient times. Long considered an exaggeration, this legend suddenly gained realism in the year 2000, when a massive "Uzubashira" pillar—three huge tree trunks bound together with iron rings, measuring three meters in diameter—was unearthed from the precincts. To a god who had yielded to the earth, people dedicated a shrine that seemed to pierce the heavens—the depth of their awe toward the defeated god is carved into its bizarre height. Mythical Izumo is also archeological Izumo. In 1984, an astonishing 358 bronze swords—surpassing the total number unearthed nationwide up to that point—were excavated at once from the Kojindani Ruins in Izumo City. The following year, 16 bronze bells and six bronze halberds were also discovered. From the nearby Kamo Iwakura Ruins, 39 bronze bells were unearthed. An ancient power capable of burying such a vast amount of bronze weaponry truly existed in Izumo, the very place the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki describe as Okuninushi's mighty kingdom. The resonance between mythology and archeology continues to give people the conviction that "something truly existed in Izumo."
In the lunar tenth month, other regions refer to the month as "Kannazuki" (the month without gods) because their deities leave for Izumo. Only in Izumo is this month called "Kamiarizuki" (the month with gods), as the eight million deities gather there. The assembled gods are said to hold "Kamihakari"—divine meetings to discuss relationships between people—which is cited as the origin of Izumo Taisha becoming a shrine for matchmaking. At the Kamimukae-sai (God-Welcoming Festival) held at dusk on Inasa Beach, sacred fires are lit, himorogi (sacred enclosures) are set up facing the ocean, and yellow-bellied sea snakes that wash ashore on the warm currents are welcomed as the Ryujin (Dragon-Snake God)[2]. This belief, entrusting a sea snake as the guide for the deities, is unique to Izumo and passed down at Izumo Taisha, Sada Shrine, and Hinomisaki Shrine. Sada Shrine even uses a tortoiseshell crest inspired by the scales of the dragon-snake. The Ryujin that washes ashore on the beach is reverently carried to the shrine and offered before the altars. Entrusting the guidance of eight million gods to a small sea creature reflects Izumo's worldview, facing the Sea of Japan, where both gods and wealth drift ashore from the everlasting world (Tokoyo) across the sea. The gods are welcomed at Inasa Beach on the 10th day of the lunar tenth month, stay at the shrines of Izumo to tie destinies until around the 17th, and are sent off with the Karasade-sai festival. It is said that the mochi soup served during this festival of the gods, "Jinzai-mochi," was corrupted into the word "zenzai," and Izumo claims to be the birthplace of zenzai (sweet red bean soup). The path guiding the gods from the beach to the grand shrine is called the "Path of God-Welcoming," and the week the gods gather casts a shadow even over the local lifestyle and cuisine.

The land of myth extends not only to life but also to the entrance of death. In Iya, Higashiizumo-cho, Matsue City, there is the legendary site of Yomotsu Hirasaka[1], where Izanagi is said to have fled from the underworld after seeing the dreadful changed state of his wife, Izanami, blocking the path with a giant boulder called Chibiki-no-Iwa. Across the slope, Izanami declared, "I will strangle one thousand people of your land to death each day," to which Izanagi replied, "Then I will build one thousand five hundred birthing huts each day." The stage for this scene, which tells of the origin of the struggle between life and death, is said to be this slope in Izumo. On this boundary explicitly specified by the Kojiki as "Ifuyazaka in the land of Izumo," a stone monument reading "Sacred Site: Legendary Yomotsu Hirasaka and Ifuyazaka" was erected in 1940. Even the border between the realm of the living and the realm of the dead can be pointed out on a map in Izumo. Since ancient times, Izumo, as the land where the sun sets in the west, has been conceptualized as the country where the dead depart. The sacred gathering place of the gods is simultaneously the entrance to the underworld—this juxtaposition of life and death gives Izumo's supernatural tales their unique depth.
Iwami and Oki:
Earthy Monsters of the Sea and Mountains
Leaving Izumo and heading west to Iwami or north to Oki, divine status fades, and raw monsters of the sea and mountains emerge. Iwami is a land of mines that prospered with the Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine and rugged coasts, while Oki consists of isolated islands offshore in the Kuroshio Current. Both were far from the mythological center like Izumo, serving as frontiers where people and nature clashed directly. This marginality nurtured earthy monsters rather than gods.

On the coast of Iwami, it is said that the Ushi-Oni (ox demon) and Nure-Onna (wet woman) team up to attack people. On the beach, the Nure-Onna offers a baby, asking, "Please hold this child." When a traveler accepts it, the baby becomes as heavy as a stone along with the traveler's apron, pinning them down so the Ushi-Oni can devour them—a gruesome seaside trap. In Yoshimi Oba's "Japanese Folklore 34: Iwami Edition" (1978)[3], many tales of Iwami's sea monsters are collected, such as the story of Tokuzaemon of Oura in Isotake-cho defeating an Ushi-Wani (Ushi-Oni) that appeared on the beach, and the legend of the Kage-Wani of Yunotsu. The Kage-Wani (shadow crocodile) of Yunotsu is said to swallow a person's shadow reflected on the sea surface on a moonlit night, causing that person to lose their life. Sea monsters creep up not through their forms alone, but through "things that are accepted"—like shadows cast on the beach or babies thrust into ones arms. A terror of such contact underlies Iwami's sea monsters. The Ushi-Oni is described as having the head of an ox and the body of an oni, or sometimes a spider-like form. It is a ferocious, man-eating sea monster widely spoken of from the Seto Inland Sea to the rocky shores of the San'in region. The violence of the sea itself, lurking behind the rich blessings of the ocean, likely took the form of the Ushi-Oni. The tale of the Umi-Bozu, where a massive, black, shaven head suddenly bulges up between the night waves before a storm to destroy ships, was also passed down to the San'in seas. The unfathomable Sea of Japan itself was a monster to the local people.
On the inland mountain trails, the Shidai-Daka looks down on travelers, growing taller the more one looks up at it. It belongs to the family of Mikoshi-Nyudo—monsters with stretching necks or backs—found from the Ochi District stretching down to Yamaguchi and Hiroshima. It is said that the more you look up, the taller it becomes, eventually attacking you when you crane your neck back and fall over, or that it disappears if you preemptively declare, "I've seen over you." This monster materializes the sensation of the mountain's darkness looming over a person. Iwami Kagura, famous for its serpent performance, conveys these monsters of the sea and mountains to the present day. "Orochi," the representative program of Iwami Kagura[4], dances out Susanoo's slaying of Yamata no Orochi. Until the Meiji era, the serpent's scales were represented by white robes and gaiters. However, Kikushiro Ueda, a Shinto priest and dancer in Hamada, took inspiration from paper lanterns to invent the "chochin-jado" (lantern snake body)—an accordion-style body made of bamboo and Sekishu washi paper reaching up to 17 meters in length. Thanks to this lightweight, expandable, and contractable serpent body, the performance evolved from featuring one or two serpents before the war to a magnificent spectacle where eight serpents simultaneously coil and breathe fire today. Designated as a Japan Heritage site in 2019, it is still dedicated at shrines everywhere, danced through the night to pray for bountiful harvests and good health. The mythical serpent continues to live on the stage of Kagura. From the autumn harvest season through the winter, the shrine pavilions of Iwami's villages are enveloped in the music and sparks of Kagura danced all night. It is none other than the site of a living tradition, re-enacting the myth anew every year.

Seven-Fathom Wife
The Seven-Fathom Wife is a giant female yokai from eastern Shimane (Izumo), the Oki Islands, and Hōki in Tottori. The term “fathom” (hiro) is a unit of length, and her height—or in some tales her neck—reaches seven hiro. She appears on mountain paths or along the shore, smiling at travelers, throwing stones, or miming laundry to bewilder people. Her look and behavior vary by locale, ranging from a beggar of striking beauty to a fearsome woman with blackened teeth and disheveled hair.
Read moreOn the Oki Islands floating off the coast in the Sea of Japan, tales are told of the Nanahiro-Nyobo, a giant woman measuring seven *hiro* (about 12 meters) tall. Around the time of Oda Nobunaga, she is said to have thrown rocks at a man on horseback, and when he slashed her face with a sword, she leaped up and turned entirely into stone. In Hinotsu, Ama-cho, a bizarre rock towering six meters high—said to be her incarnation and known as the "Nyobo-ga-ishi" (Wife's Stone)—still remains, purportedly growing slightly larger over time. The ending of being slashed and turning into stone may have been the wisdom of the islanders to seal the monster within the local landscape, passing the tale down eternally as a strange rock. The bizarreness of a woman of inhuman size suddenly appearing on a remote island mountain trail likely reflects the isolated island's fear of things coming from the outside. Ever since the days when Izumo's Ashinazuchi and Tenazuchi wept as their daughters were taken by the great serpent, the stories of this region have repeatedly spoken of the fear of things of inhuman scale. On Oki, separated by the sea, this fear took the form of a seven-hiro giantess.
Oki was also an island of distant exile (onru) where those driven from the capital were banished. Retired Emperor Go-Toba, defeated in the Jokyu War (1221), was exiled to this island and passed away after 19 years of banishment. The "Ento Onhyakushu," a collection of poems he composed on the island, exudes the solitude of an emperor yearning for the capital. The year before his passing, he wrote that he would become a vengeful spirit after death, and when royals and close aides in the capital died prematurely in succession, it was rumored to be his curse. Today, Ama-cho is home to Oki Shrine and a cremation mound enshrining Retired Emperor Go-Toba, and the exiled emperor has become the island's guardian deity. Emperor Go-Daigo, exiled to Oki during the Genko Incident (1332), escaped the island the following year to overthrow the Kamakura shogunate. In the rough seas of Oki, an island of grudges and escapes, it was also believed that the Funa-Yurei (ship ghost), the spirits of those who died in shipwrecks demanding a dipper for the boat, would appear. Since handing them a dipper would result in them pouring water into your boat until it sank, people narrowly escaped disaster by giving them a dipper with the bottom knocked out. The grudges of exiled nobles and the spirits of those who sank into the sea. The monsters of Oki mirror the very history of a closed-off island.
Spirit Possession and the Spread of Tales

Inugami
Inugami are possessing dog-spirits found mainly in western Japan, counted alongside fox possession and kuda-gitsune as a powerful occult force. Shikoku—especially Tokushima, Kochi, and Ehime—is regarded as their heartland, with traces reported from Shimane and Yamaguchi down through Kyushu to the Satsunan Islands and Okinawa. Families believed to host hereditary Inugami—called “Inugami bloodlines”—were stigmatized, leading to marriage taboos and social discrimination. Their form and temperament vary widely by locale, with traditions describing them as mouse-like, weasel-like, or bat-like, among other shapes.
Read moreThere is a layer to the supernatural phenomena of Shimane that cannot be contained within a yokai illustrated encyclopedia. The strong belief in spirit possession in the San'in region—the reality where certain lineages were said to control spirit beasts, treated with a mix of awe and discrimination. In the Izumo region, the core of this was the "Kitsunemochi" (fox holder) lineages, corresponding to the Inugami lines of Shikoku. Folklorist Yasutaka Hayami conducted field research on this custom in works like "The Superstition of Kitsunemochi in Izumo"[5], analyzing its origin as a social upheaval accompanying the penetration of the monetary economy during the Shotoku and Kyoho eras (early 18th century). The class conflicts between emerging powers and entrenched traditional forces, and the envy and grudges of the old powers, were transformed into the discourse of "spirit possession" through shamans. Families identified as Kitsunemochi were avoided in marriage, and their lineages were investigated before any engagement. According to Hayami's research, this avoidance of certain bloodlines cast a shadow over arranged marriages even well into the post-war Showa era. This is not the glamour of a ghost story, but the raw social history long harbored by the community. In the Chugoku region, many areas refer to this possessing fox as a "Ninko," a creature smaller than a normal fox. It was said to be kept in bamboo tubes or chests, possessing others to cause illness for its master's sake, bringing wealth, or eventually bringing the family to ruin. The Inugami, another kindred possessing spirit widely distributed in Shikoku and western Japan, shares its roots with Izumo's Kitsunemochi in the single aspect of the fear of bloodlines manipulating spiritual power. Yokai are born from the community's anxieties and psychology of exclusion—spirit possession is the sharpest example of this.
Another source of storytelling was a single foreigner who lived in Matsue. In 1890 (Meiji 23), Lafcadio Hearn—later known as Koizumi Yakumo—arrived to work as an English teacher at Matsue Middle School, and the following year, he married Setsu Koizumi, the daughter of a samurai family. During his days spent in the samurai residences of Shiomi Nawate, Hearn became deeply enchanted by the local ghost stories Setsu recounted. His travelogue of the San'in region, "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan" (1894), depicted Kizuki (Izumo Taisha) as Japan's oldest shrine, and the "Sai no Kawara" in the Kaka no Kukedo sea cave, where the souls of children who died young are said to pile up pebbles. Hearn even recorded the local saying, "If a wind blows strong enough to move three strands of hair, no boat can cross over to Kaka." Hearn spent only a little over a year in Matsue, but that brief stay transformed him into the finest storyteller of Japan's supernatural. His former residence on Shiomi Nawate is still preserved today, and the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum stands next door, conveying his handwritten manuscripts and cherished belongings.
Among them, "The Woman Who Bought Candy," passed down at Matsue's Daio-ji temple[6] is famous. When someone followed a pale woman who came every night to buy one mon of mizuame (liquid candy), she suddenly vanished in the graveyard, and a baby's cry was heard from beneath the ground. When they dug up the grave, they found a living infant beside its dead mother, being nourished by the scant mizuame. Regarding this tale of a mother's ghost raising the child she bore after death, Hearn—who was separated from his own mother at age four—wrote that "a mother's love is stronger than death." The numerous ghost stories Setsu told eventually bore fruit in his masterpiece "Kwaidan" (1904). The local spirits of Izumo were told to the world for the first time through the pen of a foreigner.

Gods slaying monsters, domains surrendered, sea snakes welcomed, a giant woman turning to stone, and a mother's ghost vanishing into a graveyard—the yokai of Shimane wear the very thickness of myth, folklore, and social history seamlessly layered onto a single landscape. The Kunibiki (land-pulling) myth from the "Izumo no Kuni Fudoki" (733 CE)[2], wherein Yatsukamizuomitsunu-no-Mikoto pulled land from across the sea chanting "Kuniko, kuniko" (come land, come land) to form Izumo, is a myth exclusive to Izumo, recorded in the only Fudoki in the country to survive in nearly complete form. Yatsukamizuomitsunu-no-Mikoto is said to have thrown ropes over surplus lands across the sea, such as Silla and Koshi, pulling and stitching them together to form the present-day Shimane Peninsula. The Fudoki tells that the stakes tying down the ropes became Mount Sanbe to the west and Mount Daisen of Hoki to the east, and the ropes themselves became the Sono no Nagahama and Yomishima (Yumigahama) beaches. The mountains and the beaches are all remnants of divine civil engineering. Today, people from all over the country continuously visit Izumo Taisha praying for good relationships; the giant serpents of Iwami Kagura breathe fire at every festival; and people visit the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum, drawn to the supernatural tales he depicted. The reason myths and ghost stories live on today in the form of tourism is that they remain inextricably linked to the geography and history of this land. Exploring the yokai of Shimane is nothing less than tracing Japan—back when myths still touched the ground—by walking across today's map.







